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Which version of Lotion P50 is right for you?

In 1970, Yvan Allouche created the first Lotions P50, exfoliating lotions for daily use. This unique, progressive, purifying, cleansing, reconditioning exfoliating care product helps the epidermis regain and express its original regenerative property. The cornerstone of BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE’s skin care system, Lotion P50 epitomises our research into epidermal reconditioning (corneotherapy), for a regenerated epidermis. Its name is derived from ‘P’ for peeling and ’50′(days) because it takes 2 epidermal cycles, lasting 25 days on average, to achieve the first level of epidermal reconditioning required to purify and rebalance the skin.

30 years of research and experience have led to the development of a range of Lotions P50, with reinforced exfoliating and reconditioning properties, each adapted to a specific Skin Instant.

Types of Lotion P50:

LOTION P50: Exfoliating and Purifying Lotion for the Face

Recommended for seborrheic and/or keratinised Skin Instants

LOTION P50V: Vitamin-enriched Exfoliating and Purifying Lotion for the Face

Recommended for devitalised Skin Instants and/or Skin Instants lacking tone

LOTION P50W: Gentle Exfoliating and Purifying Lotion for the Face

Recommended for those new to Biologique Recherche and thin and/or sensitive Skin Instants

LOTION P50 PIGM 400: Exfoliating and Brightening Lotion for the face

Ideal for pigmented and dull Skin Instants. Designed to be gentle for Asian skins with a genetically thin epidermis.

Lotion P50W available at Skin Care Edit

Biologique Recherche findings

The skin is made up of the hypodermis, dermis and epidermis (see diagram 1). The cells of the hypodermis, called adipocytes, specialize in fat storage. Above the hypodermis, the dermis is made up of elastin and collagen fibers. In a way, it is the skin’s supporting tissue: elastin gives it elasticity and collagen provides it with resistance. Irrigated by small blood vessels, it also provides the epidermis with the nutrients it needs by diffusion. The epidermis is made up of several successive layers. The deepest layer is the basal layer where epidermal cells are produced. These cells then take around one month to reach the upper layer, which is the layer we see: the horny layer. This horny layer is essentially made up of dead cells designed to be naturally disposed of in the form of tiny flakes: scales. This process is referred to as desquamation, sometimes exfoliation.

In contrast, in the event of intense and repeated external attack, cell production can accelerate and cell maturation is incomplete. This disruption of the skin’s balance compromises the role of the epidermis. It should be noted that, during youth, the skin renewal cycle lasts from 20 to 28 days; with age, it tends to slow down. Exfoliation is a natural phenomenon during which the epidermis eliminates its dead cells; sometimes however, especially with age, the natural epidermal renewal process slows down.

Boosting exfoliation is a technique commonly practiced in dermatology and cosmetics, which involves removing the outer layers of the epidermis. Exfoliation has a uniquely epidermal action on the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum is divided into two parts: the stratum corneum compactum and the stratum corneum disjonctum. The stratum corneum disjonctum is the most superficial. It is made up of five to ten cell layers. Its cohesion is less effective and is only guaranteed at the periphery of the corneocytes. Exfoliation involves removing the superficial part of the epidermis. The number of layers removed varies depending on the techniques used. The epidermis responds to this shedding very quickly (within a few hours). The repair of the epidermis is a two-stage process: firstly, the underlying epidermal cells rapidly secrete free fatty acids and cholesterol, which cover the exfoliated area, after which epidermal cells multiply to replace the eliminated layer. This phenomenon may be accompanied by slight inflammation.

The clinical effect observed after superficial exfoliation has a number of effects on the skin:

  • elimination of the outermost horny layers, boosting the skin’s radiance, illuminating the skin.
  • The effect of superficial exfoliation on fine lines is due to minor epidermal hyperplasia and very moderate inflammatory oedema which smoothes the skin’s surface.
  • the epidermis is freed of its impurities

The epidermis acts as the interface between the outside world and our inner environment. It protects our body against environmental attack on a daily basis. The horny layer is made up of dead, flat and irregular cells. It is important to create an optimum environment for these corneocytes to ensure their cohesion until they reach maturity, so that the epidermis can fulfil its role as a shield. In simple terms, the skin can be compared to a house: if the roof is poorly constructed and provides insufficient protection against external attack, all the elements inside will be subject to stressful situations and will become more vulnerable as a result.

 

  1. The skin’s metabolic balance: pH

 

One of the most important aspects to consider when acting on the epidermis is pH balance. Preserving a balanced pH helps create an ideal environment on the skin surface. The skin’s ideal pH is slightly acidic, between 4.7 and 6.5 on the pH scale (7 is a neutral pH).

Maintaining the pH of the horny layer is of great importance for the skin’s defence against pathogenic agents and for maintaining the skin’s structure.

pH plays a role in the selection and maintenance of normal skin resident flora. Cutaneous acidity protects the skin against microbial infections. Resident flora develops better with a slightly acid pH, while pathogenic bacteria have a preference for a slightly higher pH to develop.

Boosting exfoliation and cellular renewal helps the action at epidermal level to enhance the radiance of the complexion. Maintaining pH balance on the skin’s surface protects the cutaneous barrier of the epidermis.

SPECIFIC SKIN INSTANTS 

 

Seborrheic Skin Instants

Sebum is secreted by the skin’s sebaceous glands and is essentially made up of lipids. It plays a key role in the skin’s protective barrier effect. It contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film on the surface, thereby maintaining the suppleness of the epidermis.

The excess production of sebum, or hyperseborrhea, results in oily, shiny, unsightly skin. It is particularly apparent in the “T” zone of the face. The pores are dilated and require daily care to prevent the appearance of blackheads or acne on the face.

Several endogenous or environmental factors can cause excess sebum and the dilation of facial pores: heredity, hormonal factors, eating habits, the sun or the use of aggressive cosmetics which modify the activity of the sebaceous glands.

This is why the skin must be purified and sebum secretion must be regulated to reinforce the protective barrier of the epidermis.

 

 

Devitalised Skin Instants and/or Skin Instants lacking tone

Cutaneous ageing can have two different causes:

  • Heredity: according to genetic predispositions, age can cause the facial skin to sag, the appearance of wrinkles and the skin to become devitalised.
  • The environment and lifestyle: the sun, pollution, tobacco, alcohol consumption and poor diet have adverse consequences on the ageing of the skin. The skin loses its firmness, wrinkles become deeper and the complexion becomes dull.

Time and age cause a slowing down in the renewal of epidermal cells. The skin becomes thinner, more fragile and sensitive to external attack. The healing process also slows down.

Boosting epidermal renewal, toning and smoothing the skin, helps combat cutaneous aging.

 

 

 

Sensitive and reactive Skin Instants

Skin sensitivity does not affect a specific type of skin. However, the tolerance threshold of sensitive skin is much lower, the permeability of its horny layer is deficient and its physiological balance is fragile.

Suffering from insufficient natural protection, sensitive skin cannot defend itself properly and overreacts when faced with internal (stress, fatigue, disease, hormonal imbalance) and external attack (sun, cold, pollution, cosmetic products).

Hypersensitivity can produce different reactions such as tingling, redness, sensations of discomfort, prickling or sensations of tightness and burning skin.

To protect sensitive skin, soothing the skin and reinforcing the protection of its cutaneous barrier is recommended.

 

 

Pigmented and dull Skin Instants

Because of age and external attack, the renewal process slows down and the skin’s balance is altered. The complexion becomes dull and lacks radiance. The skin’s impurities are highlighted and it looks older because of its lack of suppleness.

Hyperpigmentation is caused by excess melanin in the skin. Melanin is a molecule produced by the melanocytes in the epidermis to protect the skin against solar radiation. While this disruption in the synthesis of melanin can be triggered by a number of factors, the sun is the main culprit. Over the years, the synthesis of pigments becomes disrupted, the pigments accumulate and cause the appearance of pigmentation marks.

Exfoliation and regulation of the synthesis of pigments helps respond to the needs of dull Skin Instants with hyperpigmentation marks.

This is why BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE has developed a range of Lotions P50, which gently support the natural exfoliating process and create an ideal environment on the surface of the epidermis for the skin to develop in a healthy and balanced manner. Each Lotion P50 has been designed to respond to the needs of the different Skin Instants.

Because of its exfoliating, moisturizing, antiseptic properties and low pH, Lotion P50 is ideal for reconditioning the epidermis.

The Biologique Recherche solution

Lotions P50 are multi-functional products which combine the benefits of a purifying, exfoliating, moisturizing and toning lotion and help reconstitute the epidermal shield. The reinforced epidermis fully exerts its protective capabilities and promotes the skin’s auto-renewal potential.

Each Lotion P50 is adapted to a specific Skin Instant and has a specific action, shared and individual ingredients listed below.

Dr, Allouche measuring a clients Skin Instant for a quantitative analysis of the current skin condition.

Shared Active Ingredients in all Lotion P50 formulas

Exfoliating platform

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid

Alpha Hydroxy Acids, still called Fruit Acids, are a class of acids derived from fruit or milk sugars. For example, apples contain malic acid, lemons and oranges have citric acid, and milk has lactic acid. Their activity depends on their concentration and pH. In the pH standards of Lotion P50, these molecules are divided in a ratio of salts and acids. The acid ratio is very important and contributes to exfoliation; the ratio of salts, which is lower, contributes to hydration. They stimulate the natural desquamation process of the corneocytes, which are found at the surface of the stratum corneum and stimulate cellular renewal. Amino acids resulting from the degradation of corneocytes and AHA salts contribute to hydration of the horny layer. Therefore, AHAs exfoliate and smooth the skin.

Cider Vinegar 

This extract is obtained from the fermentation of apples which are then transformed into vinegar. Its high tannin content gives it purifying and astringent properties. Cider Vinegar is rich in fruit acids (citric and malic acid) which contribute to improving cellular renewal and provide a regenerative effect.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA): Salicylic acid 

Salicylic Acid is naturally synthesized by certain plants such as the willow. Known for many years for its medicinal properties (anti-inflammatory property in aspirin), it also plays an important role in cosmetics: it is a keratolytic agent that is more lipophilic than AHAs. Therefore, it can go through the sebum and more easily penetrate through pores in order to dissolve dead cells that are obstructing them. Its exfoliating action helps smooth facial skin and stimulate the epidermis renewal process.

Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA): Gluconolactone 

Gluconolactone is naturally present in honey and fruit juices. Through its structure, it penetrates less in the stratum corneum than AHAs. Therefore, it is less irritating than AHAs. It is an exfoliant that gently removes dead cells from the skin’s surface.

Phytic Acid

Phytic Acid is a natural rice derivative. Phytic Acid can fix ions, notably Calcium ions. A protein called cadherin is located in the stratum corneum it plays an important role in corneocyte cohesion. This protein’s functionality depends on calcium ions. Through its properties, phytic acid is able to deprive cadherins of calcium ions. The latter lose their functionality and adhesion to corneocytes is no longer ensured. Therefore, it has a keratolytic action and helps promote cellular renewal. In addition to being an exfoliant for the epidermis, this action is also used to even out the complexion. Finally, its very low pH makes it a true acidity booster.

Levulinic acid

Organic compound that improves the epidermis’ natural acidic environment. It protects the skin from microorganisms. It is found in many different plants. The level of skin acidity can be maintained for a longer period of time. The correlation between physiological pH and healthy skin has been demonstrated in several studies.

Sulfur

Sulfur is an element found in many minerals in the form of sulfide and sulfate, in particular in volcanic regions. It is highly valued in the treatment of seborrheic skin because of its keratolytic effect, which is enhanced in the presence of salicylic acid.

Australian finger limes Extract (Lotion P50 PIGM 400 Only)

Exfoliating agent extracted from Australian Finger Lime, a fruit naturally rich in AHAs; it offers a new exfoliation mechanism which respects the epidermis. The Australian finger lime is a fruit from a small subtropical tree growing in the Australian rainforest. This fruit contains different acids such as citric acid, but also vitamins, minerals, amino acids and antioxidants.

Purifying platform

Magnesium Chloride

Magnesium Chloride is used in the treatment of acne because of its antiseptic, cleansing, sebo-regulating and healing properties. It can also be used to treat other skin conditions such as eczema.

 Magnesium Sulfate (Lotion P50 PIGM 400)

After calcium and phosphate, magnesium is the most plentiful mineral in the body. In its basic salt form, magnesium sulfate gives an ionisable electrolytic solution when it is added to water. Magnesium sulfate is used for its remineralizing and relaxing properties and helps maintain the skin’s metabolic balance.

Horseradish Extract 

A perennial plant native to Eastern Europe, Horseradish is grown for its roots. Horseradish Roots are rich in flavonoids, coumarins and phenols. In the cosmetic industry, they are valued for their cleansing, purifying and anti-bacterial properties and help regulate the production of sebum.

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)

Niacinamide or Vitamin B3 or PP is a water soluble vitamin belonging to the vitamin B group. It has anti-inflammatory properties which help combat acne problems.

Burdock Extract

Burdock is a plant whose leaves and roots are used for their medicinal properties. Rich in polysaccharides, Burdock Extract is known for its moisturizing, repairing and soothing properties. It is an ideal active ingredient for combination skin: purifying and sebo-regulating, Burdock Extract helps moisturize dehydrated areas while purifying greasy areas.

Sorrel Extract (Lotion P50 Only)

Sorrel is a herbaceous plant native to North America. Its high tannin content gives it astringent properties, allowing it to regulate sebum secretion. Sorrel Extract also has an ideal anti-microbial action for purifying and antiseptic products.

 Myrtle Extract (Lotion P50 Only)

Myrtle is a shrub native to the Mediterranean Basin. Myrtle Extract is used in facial skin care products for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. Its purifying properties also make it an optimal active ingredient.

Myrrh Extract (Lotion P50 Only)

Myrrh is the resin produced by the balsam tree native to North Africa, which belongs to the Burseraceae family. Myrrh Extract is used for its soothing, purifying and astringent properties.

Meadowsweet Extract (Lotion P50 PIGM 400)

Meadowsweet, or spiraea ulmaria, is an herbaceous plant that grows in moist soils in temperate areas. Meadowsweet is hydrating, astringent and softening. Remineralizing and toning, meadowsweet is a very good active ingredient for tired, dull skin.

Sebum regulating platform

Onion Extract (Lotion P50)

Native to the Middle East, Onion is used in cosmetics for its purifying and astringent properties. It is rich in quercetin, a flavonoid, which means Onion Extract also has soothing and regenerative properties.

Thyme Essential Oil (Lotion P50 Only) 

This Essential Oil is extracted from Thyme leaves and flowers through steam distillation. This restorative oil is highly valued for its toning properties, as it helps stimulate microcirculation. Thyme Essential Oil is also a soothing, antiseptic and purifying agent.

Yeast Extract (Lotion P50V)

Yeast is made up of mineral salts, carbohydrates, lipids and vitamins (very rich in vitamin B). Thanks to the presence of vitamin B, Yeast Extract helps preserve the skin’s integrity: it has a re-balancing effect and facilitates the healing of certain skin conditions (acne, seborrhoea).

Yeast also has firming, smoothing, eudermic and bioactivating properties. On mature skin, it helps reduce wrinkles, resulting in a more even surface with fewer cracks, smoother, less pallid skin, and improved skin texture. This active ingredient is used in skin care products for mature skin.

Capsicum Extract (Lotion P50V, Lotion P50W)
Capsicums are a family of plants yielding fruit such as peppers or chilies. These fruits are rich in capsaicin, the active component giving them a “spicy” taste, as well as in carotenoids and flavonoids. They are used in cosmetics for their antiseptic and purifying properties.

Horseradish Extract (Lotion P50V)

A perennial plant native to Eastern Europe, Horseradish is grown for its roots. Horseradish Roots are rich in flavonoids, coumarins and phenols. In the cosmetic industry, they are valued for their cleansing, purifying and anti-bacterial properties and help regulate the production of sebum.

Smoothing Platform

Sponge Extract (Lotion P50V)

This extract comes in a powdery form and is composed of a mixture of fibers (small “needles”). These “needles” have a peeling effect when in contact with the epidermis: they cause slight inflammation which results in the renewal of the horny layer. During this renewal, the production of collagen is stimulated and the production of sebum is controlled. This is why this extract is used to treat fine lines.

Walnut Extract (Lotion P50V)

Walnut Extract provides protection against the damage caused by time and the environment. This active ingredient helps reinforce the body’s natural antioxidant functions, stimulate the growth of keratinocytes and limit the activity of elastase, the enzyme responsible for degrading elastin. Walnut Extract is used in cosmetology for its anti-wrinkle, protective and firming properties.

Soapbark Extract (Lotion P50W)

Soapbark Extract, rich in saponosides, has gentle cleansing properties.

Soothing platform

Arnica Extract (Lotion P50W)

Arnica is a herbaceous perennial plant which grows at a high altitude, with flowers containing carbohydrates, organic acids, phenolic compounds and terpenoids. Its anti-inflammatory and healing properties make it a choice ingredient in cosmetics as a soothing a protective agent.

 Lightening and anti-dark spot Platform

Palmaria palmata Extract (Lotion P50 PIGM 400)

Rich in xylose and galactose, Palmaria Palmata is a red alga known for:

  • limiting melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and the rate of synthesised melanin
  • Reducing photo-induced pigmentation

Through this active ingredient’s anti-pigment and comprehensive action, skin colour is uniform and brighter, the complexion is radiant and uniform, age spots are lightened.

Complex of fruits titrated in Flavonoids and AHAs

This fruit complex combines the powerful anti tyrosinase activity of the peach tree with the lightening and exfoliating action of raspberry and apple. These fruits were selected for their content of organic acids such as citric, malic and tartric acids. Also rich in vitamin C and flavonoids, this complex stops radical chain reactions (capture of free radicals) and participates in cutaneous restructuring by inhibiting enzymes involved in collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin proteolysis. This anti-age and cellular regenerative complex provides a flash effect and helps reveal a more radiant complexion.

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